Thursday, January 27, 2011

We're moving...

As of today, these posts will gradually be incorporated into the main All Tressed Up website.  There you will find these same articles, edible recipes and beauty recipes.  For updates on ingredients and beautiful foods, feel free to visit All Tressed Up.

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Thursday, November 4, 2010

Why Distilled Water?

As this ingredients journey continues I cannot help but notice the various types of water used in products.  There is plain water, spring water, distilled water and even more variety.  Isn't water just water?

I'm afraid not.  The next few posts will focus on the various types of water included in product ingredient lists as well as their overall health benefits.

Distilled water is water in it's purest form - two molecules of hydrogen to one molecule of oxygen.  Everyday tap water and/or spring water is heated to the point of boiling.  The steam is captured and begins to convert into pure water (with a pH of 7.0).  This process forces the tap or spring water to leave behind the minerals, chemicals and other nutrients that once existed in the formulation prior to heating.

If you see distilled water on your label, just know that you have pure water in your product.

More benefits of distilled water:

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Phthalates

We are already aware that products should be labeled with the ingredients.  More and more you are probably noticing labels that read ________ FREE.  Phthalates (pronounced fal-ates) can easily fill one of these blanks.  That's right, we've got another chemical on our hands, folks!

What is it? 
A chemical compound, phthalates, is also know as a plasticizer.  In the beauty world, this chemical compound can be found in nail polish, makeup (maintaining the color) and lotions (even spreading).  Phthalates are also responsible for making your fragrance last longer.

Speaking of fragrance, have you noticed that ingredient listed on many of your product labels?  Well, in many instances 'Fragrance' equals Phthalates.  While the fragrance itself may be natural or natural-like, the chemical is used as the carrier - negating the natural claim. 

Don't get me wrong, in some instances the word 'fragrance' is used in an effort not to disclose the properties of the product.  Fragrance could be a combination of essential oils that the product creator would rather not disclose.  Just be careful.

Check out this video on phthalates!


Where else might I find phthalates?
  • Shower curtains
  • Water bottles
  • Sex toys
  • New car scent 
What are the effects of phthalates?
Studies have shown that this chemical has a negative effect on males resulting in deformed and/or underdeveloped testicles in newborn males.  This is a result of high phthalate levels from the pregnant mother.  Phthalates has also been reported to have a negative impact on sperm count and integrity in men.

Phthalates have also been connected to premature breast development in young girls and has been connected to an increased risk in breast cancer.  The chemical has a negative impact on the body (specifically the endocrine system) by mimicking existing hormones.

Aliases: PVC, DEHP, BzBP (benzylbutyl phthalate), DBP (di-n-butyl phthalate), DEP (diethyl phthalate), DMP (dimethyl phthalate), Fragrance

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Goody, Goody Grapeseed Oil!

We're trying to maintain a pattern here.  The last post was about silicone, a chemical heat-protectant used in a number of haircare and skin care products.  It would only be befitting to counteract that post with a natural alternative!

Introducing - Grapeseed Oil!

When it comes to natural beauty this natural oil has many benefits.

Health Benefits
According to a study University of Maryland report, grapeseed oil has been proven to lower cholesterol and high blood pressure.  In addition the extract has inhibited the growth of cancer cells (in test tubes only). 

If you have time to dedicate to a local massage table, this may be the oil you want to request as it decreases stress in the body.  Because it comes from grapes, you can definitely consume this oil.  This oil is naturally low in cholesterol and due to its actual vitamin and mineral content, can actually be a safe alternative.

Skin
With its wonderful ability to stimulate collagen production, this oil limits the number of fine lines and wrinkles you may usually notice as time progresses.  Do you suffer from vericose veins, spider veins or stretch marks?  Credit has been given to this oil to ease the pain of vericose and spider veins while fading the appearance of stretch marks.  Other benefits of using grapeseed oil on the skin include:
  • anti-inflammatory
  • tone and tighten the skin
  • thin and light oil with minimal natural fragrance
Hair
This oil can definitely be used as a heat-protectant on the days you prefer to wear your tresses straightened.  This oil can battle up to 421 degrees (Fahrenheit)!  In addition to the heat resistance, this oil contains essential fatty acids that aid in maintaining the elasticity of the hair.  It also contains a number of proteins, vitamins and minerals; all beneficial to the hair and scalp.

I'll be posting a video (and review) soon on using grapeseed oil as a heat protectant as well as skin moisturizing agent. Stay tuned!

Aliases: vinis vinifera (grape) seed oil, geranium maculatum, brassica campestris (rapeseed) oil

Silicones: What's the Verdict?

As I flip through one of my favorite hair magazines carefully reading each page and interview, I couldn't help but notice tips from a certain  hairstylist who will remain anonymous for the purposes of this article.

This particular hairstylist recommended using products with silicone to enhance shine and to protect the hair from heat damage.  Nothing wrong with that, right?  Well...kind of.  You see the truth is that products which contain this chemical polymer do in fact enhance shine, manageability as well as protect the hair from heat damage in a remarkable way.  This stylist knows how to get the job done!

Let's take a moment to think about silicone in general.  Hmmm...some of our kitchen appliances are made from silicone.  These are some of the most heat resistant pans and handle holders of our time.  Do you find a bit of irony in the fact that the same material we use to cook our food is being used to help us cook our hair?  Yes, you read it right.  Truth be told, the main ingredient that you will find in many of those heat-protectants, serums, and frizz control products is in fact silicone.

What's the big deal - I'm protecting my hair against heat damage while simultaneously giving it a fabulous shine?   Lets delve a bit deeper.  The composition of silicone is one that cannot be absorbed by the hair shaft.  This is because the molecules are too large.  As a result, the silicone coats the hair shaft.  Yes, it coats the hair shaft - 'protecting' it from absorbing external factors including moisture and/or other nutrients (like oxygen and sunlight).  Is it starting to make sense?

Shine
Isn't it much easier to see a reflection off of a smooth surface?  The first layer of the hair shaft prone to damage is the cuticle.  Over time its natural roof shingle-like texture begins to lose shingles (or layers), may not open and close properly and as a result is not smooth and thus cannot emit a shine.  The silicone coats the damaged hair shaft resulting in a smooth surface and finally emitting the shine.

But what about the damaged hair?  Because the silicone cannot be absorbed, you get buildup which yields limp, lifeless tresses.  Oh, and psssst...the damage is still there.

Frizz
Your tresses have a new coat.  This coat, since it cannot be absorbed, simply weighs the hair down creating a less frizzy look.

Heat Protection
This stuff can resist up to 482-degrees (Fahrenheit) of heat!  With all of the heating appliances we use on our tresses, this is great news!  You're protecting your hair, but it simply sitting on the surface and building up until your next cleanse.

Alternatives to silicone-based products
As you know this is the ingredients journey, so as I learn more I share more.  So far the one oil I can recommend for sure is coconut oil.  This oil has a naturally high threshold for heat.  The other oils that I am finding have high levels of heat resistance are grapeseed oil and argan oil.

Regardless of the alternative you choose, know that these oils can be absorbed into the hair shaft (some moreso than others) and can provide excellent benefits to the hair, scalp and skin in general.  These are also excellent cooking oils as well.

The key is to strengthen the hair from the inside out and then burn it!  LOL!  Seriously, be proactive - inside out.  Remember that the hair blossoms and thrives because of what you feed it (your diet).  It's not just about what you put on the hair.  Treat the cause; not the symptom.

What's your verdict?  Should you choose to use silicone-based products know that you will need to invest in some clarifying shampoo (or cleanse with baking soda/apple cider vinegar as a homemade clarifying shampoo).

Tips on spotting silicones
In general, most of your silicones will end in -cone; so much so that you may hear people refer to them as cones.  Here are a few examples of what you may see on your labels:
  • Dimethicone
  • Hydroxipropydimethicone
  • Polysilicone
  • Stearyl dimethicone
  • Cyclomethicone
  • Botanisil
What's your verdict?

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Coconut Oil

This oil is fantastic! Being the closest fruit to the sun, the coconut has many benefits to our systems - inside and out.  Be sure to purchase Virgin (Unrefined) Coconut oil.  You can purchase this at most grocers selling whole foods or a local Vitamin Shoppe.

Here a few ways in which you can use coconut oil:

Cooking
Try using coconut oil instead of butter.  There is a bit of a debate about the consumption of dairy.  Is it healthy?  Why are humans the only to consume another animal's milk and/or mucus?  That discussion is for another day.

Slice some fresh carrots and peppers of various colors.  Allow the coconut oil to melt (it won't take long).  This oil has the ability to withstand high heat in an excellent way. (Remember, it is the closest fruit to the sun.)  Add a tablespoon of minced garlic and season to taste.  Allow all of these ingredients to saute in a pan for a few moments.  Yummy!  You'll notice a slight buttery-sweet flavor without the dairy.

Hair
This sun fruit is so close to the protein of the hair in composition that it actually reduces protein loss - restoring damaged hair.  This is the ultimate conditioner/protein treatment!  Like olive oil, coconut oil can penetrate the hair shaft completely.  It is also rumored to promote hair growth.

Skin
Do you suffer from eczema?  Informal surveys confirm that eczema outbreaks are at an all time high this season.  If you can catch the eczema outbreak before it becomes inflamed, this oil works marvelously!  I am a living testimony of this fact.  Having a mild outbreak of eczema, I decided to use coconut oil and within the week the eczema was gone!  This certainly beats those steroid creams prescribed by your doctor.  This also makes an excellent massage oil as well.  While it may leave the skin feeling greasy, it will most definitely be absorbed as the day progresses. 

Without going to deep, just realize that this sun food is grows the closest to the sun.  The overall health benefits are amazing.  There are books that have been written about the mighty coconut, should you desire more information:

Monday, June 14, 2010

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

We have already discussed Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), but what about Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)?  They are NOT the same chemical.  Let's talk about it...

SLS is a harsh detergent that is found in a number of our products and is quite dangerous.  Think about your skin absorbing harsh chemicals in extremely small amounts over time.  It will add up, folks!

SLES, sodium laureth sulfate, while less harsh still raises an eyebrow or two.  You see, many 'natural' products will contain SLES as an ingredient.  How in the world could they do this, you may ask?  Suprisingly, SLES is derived from coconut oil.  That's how.  So, does that mean it's natural?  Absolutely not!

The coconut oil is taken through a process called ethoxylation, whereby a chemical by the name of ethylene oxide (carcinogen) is mixed in with our precious coconut oil. NOOOOO!  As a result, the product foams or produces suds, but not without releasing an awful chemical by the name of Dioxane - not good!  Did you know that Dioxane does not have to be listed on the ingredients lists because it is a byproduct!

Quick tip: Any time you see an 'eth' in an ingredient, it has more than likely been taken through the ethoxylation process yielding the icky Dioxane.

Read those ingredient lists people!

Aliases: SODIUM LAUREATE SULFATE, DODECYL SODIUM SULFATE; PEG- (1-4) LAURYL ETHER SULFATE, SODIUM SALT; POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL (1-4) LAURYL ETHER SULFATE, SODIUM SALT; POLY (OXY-1,2-ETHANEDIYL) ,A -SULFO-W (DODECYLOXY) -, SODIUM SALT; POLYOXYETHYLENE (1-4) LAURYL ETHER SULFATE , SODIUM SALT; SODIUM PEG LAURYL ETHER SULFATE; SODIUM POLYOXYETHYLENE LAURYL ETHER SULFATE; SODIUM POLYOXYETHYLENE LAURYL SULFATE; SODIUM SALT PEG- (1-4) LAURYL ETHER SULFATE; SODIUM SALT POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL (1-4) LAURYL ETHER SULFATE; SODIUM SALT POLY (OXY-1,2-ETHANEDIYL) ,A -SULFO-W (DODECYLOXY) -